Chapter 2: Belfast and Newgrange – Ships, Stones, and Troubles
Dates: August 29–30, 2017
After two full days in Dublin, the Crew packed into our nine-passenger van and headed north. Our destination was Belfast, but along the way we took a detour into deep history at Newgrange. This article is the second chapter in our 21-day journey through Ireland and Scotland, a series that blends travel experiences, family connections, and a fair share of laughs.
At a Glance: This Part of the Route
- Trip chapter: Chapter 2 of our 2017 Ireland and Scotland journey.
- Route: Dublin to Newgrange, then north to Belfast and the Giant’s Causeway.
- Main stops: Newgrange, Titanic Belfast, Belfast murals, and the Giant’s Causeway.
- Best for: heritage travelers, first-time Northern Ireland visitors, family travel stories, and anyone planning a route that combines ancient monuments with modern history.
- Planning note: check current timed-entry, ticket, parking, shuttle, and access details for Newgrange, Titanic Belfast, and the Giant’s Causeway before building a day around them.
Newgrange: Older Than the Pyramids
Our first stop was Newgrange in County Meath. This stone passage tomb, dating to around 3200 BC, predates Stonehenge and the Egyptian pyramids. From the outside it looks like a grassy mound, but inside, carvings and stonework point to people who built with skill, patience, and a sense of meaning thousands of years ago.
When we learned about the alignment of the central chamber with the rising sun during the winter solstice, we were in awe. Imagine the builders engineering a beam of light to pierce the inner chamber every December, a prehistoric light show before electricity was even a dream. Standing inside a monument that has survived for more than 5,000 years made us feel small. Not bad for Neolithic contractors. Clearly no corners were cut.
For another perspective on County Meath’s passage tombs, explore our Loughcrew Cairns history and visitor guide before planning a separate visit.
Arrival in Belfast
By late afternoon we reached Jury’s Inn in Belfast, a comfortable hotel with a hot breakfast that quickly became a Crew favorite. Bryan sat this stretch out, staying back to recover from an illness, but rejoined us later in the trip.
Titanic Belfast
Belfast is proud of its shipbuilding heritage, and nothing symbolizes that more than the Titanic. At Titanic Belfast, we stepped through galleries that told the story of the city’s shipyards, the ship’s construction, and the voyage that made Titanic one of the most famous names in maritime history. The building itself resembles four ship prows, each gleaming in the light.
It felt strange to stand in the city that had built such a legend. Some of us found the exhibits sobering; others marveled at the engineering feats. We all agreed the museum was worth the visit, even if our ship of a van had trouble steering narrow streets afterwards.
The Troubles on the Walls
Driving through Belfast, we passed murals and political artwork connected with the period known as the Troubles. These walls told stories of division, resilience, identity, grief, and community memory. We were only visitors passing through, so this was a glimpse rather than a full understanding of Belfast’s political history.
Even so, the murals made an impression. They reminded us that Belfast is not only a city of shipyards, museums, and visitor attractions. It is also a place where recent history is visible on streets and walls, and where people continue to carry complicated memories of conflict and change.
Giant’s Causeway
Our next stop took us north to the Giant’s Causeway, where roughly 40,000 hexagonal basalt columns meet the sea. The formation is the result of ancient volcanic activity, though legend insists that the giant Finn McCool built the causeway to cross to Scotland. Either way, we were happy to climb, pose, and soak in the view.
The visitor center offered lunch and transport options to make the visit easier, though details can change from season to season. Some of us chose to stretch our legs. Pat and Maggie found a sunny spot near the stones while the rest of us joked about starting a new rock band.
What’s Next
With Newgrange, Belfast, and the Giant’s Causeway behind us, we turned west toward Ballina, where family connections awaited. This part of the journey reminded us how quickly Ireland and Northern Ireland can shift from ancient stones to modern politics, from myth to memory, and from a van full of travelers to a story worth retelling.
Continue the 2017 Journey
Read more about this trip: Chapter 1: Dublin Travel Guide: Guinness, Trinity College, and a First Ireland Trip, Chapter 3: Ballina, Chapter 4: Knock Shrine and Roscommon, Chapter 5: Rock of Cashel and Kilkenny, and Chapter 6: Kildare and Dublin.
Explore More Ancient Structures
More Ireland Travel and Heritage Stories
Read more stories about Ireland: Irish Redhead Convention: Crosshaven’s Red-Hair Festival Story, Five Stunning Waterfalls in Ireland You Should See at Least Once, and Irish Inventors: How They Changed the World.
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