Chapter 5: Rock of Cashel and Kilkenny (Sep 4 and 5, 2017)
Leaving Roscommon behind, the Crew aimed south toward two of Ireland’s most famous sites: the Rock of Cashel and the medieval city of Kilkenny. After days of family roots and sacred shrines, we were ready for a royal dose of history, mixed with plenty of laughs and a pint or two.
Planning a broader trip? See our guide to the top castles in Ireland.
The Rock of Cashel
Rising dramatically from the Golden Vale, the Rock of Cashel looks like something plucked straight from a storybook. Once the seat of the Kings of Munster, it is said that St. Patrick himself converted King Aengus here in the 5th century. The site later became a powerful ecclesiastical center.
We toured the ruins of Cormac’s Chapel, with its Romanesque carvings, and the great cathedral that towers above the countryside. Standing on the rock, we could see fields stretching for miles in every direction, dotted with sheep. Someone joked that the sheep must have the best view in Ireland. Another Crew member quipped that with all the stone steps, this place should come with its own medieval fitness program.
At the Rock of Cashel, tradition holds that wrapping your arms around the base of St. Patrick’s Cross can prevent toothaches. While you can wrap your arms around a replica of the 12th-century sandstone cross, the original is kept in a museum or the basement for conservation.
Kilkenny – cats, castles, and cathedrals
From the Rock of Cashel, we headed east to Kilkenny, a city with medieval lanes, stone churches, and plenty of charm. The city’s symbol, the Kilkenny cat, pops up everywhere from shop signs to souvenirs, often with a mischievous grin.
Our first stop was St. Canice’s Cathedral, a Gothic masterpiece dating back to the 13th century. Some of the Crew climbed the round tower beside it, rewarded with sweeping views of the city. Others stayed below, content to admire the architecture without testing their balance.
We then wandered into the Black Abbey, founded in 1225 by Dominican friars. Its stained glass windows gleamed with color, a contrast to the dark stone walls. It was easy to imagine monks chanting here centuries ago.
The highlight was Kilkenny Castle, once the seat of the powerful Butler family. Restored rooms showed off tapestries, furniture, and portraits that transported us back to a time of noble banquets and political intrigue. By the time we finished, we had walked enough stone corridors to deserve a reward.
Food, shopping, and laughter
Kilkenny’s Design Centre across from the castle offered that reward. We browsed Irish crafts, pottery, and jewelry, some of us picking up gifts while others simply admired the workmanship. Dinner that night was hearty and well earned, washed down with local beer.
Some of the Crew claimed the food had cured their aches better than any medicine. Others swore a pint of Smithwick’s was the real cure, brewed right here in Kilkenny. Whatever worked, we ended the night in good spirits, trading jokes about how we had survived the “castle crawl.”
What’s next
From Kilkenny, our journey continued toward Kildare and then Dublin once more before setting sail for Scotland. But the Rock of Cashel and Kilkenny gave us two days of history, legend, and lighthearted fun that balanced the solemnity of our earlier stops.
Read more about this trip: Chapter 1, Chapter 2, Chapter 3, Chapter 4, Chapter 6.
Want more stories about Ireland? Try these: The Irish Redhead Convention, Top 5 Must-Visit Waterfalls in Ireland, and Irish Inventors: How They Changed the World.
Planning a broader trip? See our guide to the top castles in Ireland.
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